On first impression, the sweet 1990 Stielle Vino da Tavola is potentially outstanding. However, the tannin kicks in at the back of the palate, and in spite of delivering a blast of concentrated, oak-tinged, cassis and redcurrant fruit, the wine finishes with an elevated level of astringency. It is another questionable candidate for attaining an ideal equilibrium between the fruit and the wine's structural components. This robust, forceful, powerful wine needs 4-6 years of cellaring. Anticipated maturity: 2002-2016.Importer: Vias Imports, New York, NY; tel. (212) 629-0200
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