Toni Jost Bacharacher Riesling Kabinett Feinherb

點(diǎn)擊次數(shù)：1526

Incorporating inter alia newly-yielding vineyards above the Hahn, and from early-picked fruit, the Jost 2010 Bacharacher Riesling Kabinett feinherb brims with finely-scented fresh pear and apple dusted with cardamom and crushed stone. The Josts normally reserve “feinherb” for designating wines barely above the legal limit of sugar for trocken, but here the level is higher and seems to help reinforce the fruit without engendering any impression of sweetness per se. A hint of apple pip along with alkaline and wet stone undertones, complement the generously juicy, transparent finishing fruit of an adeptly-balanced Riesling apt to prove deliciously versatile over the next 8-10 years. Jost’s musts - largely from late October picking - were all double-salt de-acidified, and certain lots, including the Grosse Gewachse from both Mittelrhein and Rheingau, also underwent malo-lactic transformation in the course of unusually long fermentations. “We should culture and sell whatever powerful bacteria managed this,” notes Cecilia Jost jocularly, considering the low-pH medium in which they worked even after double-salt treatment. High acids also prompted some experiments in extended lees exposure and skin contact, though I fancy the latter might in some instances have accentuated a tendency toward bitterness. (Cecelia Jost had acquired some experience with all of these approaches from her time in New Zealand.) Residual sugar was left higher, and alcohol lower than usual in the majority of these 2010s.Bill Mayer Age of Riesling Selections, imported by Valley View Wine Sales, Glen Ellen, CA; tel. (510) 549 2444; also imported by Dee Vine Wines, San Francisco, CA; tel. (877) 389-9463