The Drouhin 2007 Rully illustrates the sort of distinctiveness and quality one sometimes encounters in the low-priced echelons at this address. Aromas and flavors of fresh lime and tart red raspberry are complimented by savory, saline mineral suggestions and subtle creaminess; and this finishes with cut and refreshment as well as persistent nuance, promising to prove deliciously versatile over the next couple of years. Veronique Drouhin-Boss expressed enormous – and, in my view, justifiable – satisfaction with the 2007 crop of Drouhin whites, admitting that their sense of concentration might strike some observers as paradoxical given the vintage’s relatively high yields. Regular batonnage seems to have been a successful policy here, at least as judged by flattering textures and overt richness (almost atypically so for the vintage) short-term. For an account of Drouhin’s Chablis from 2007, consult the separate report on that region in this issue. Importer: Dreyfus-Ashby & Co., New York, NY; tel. (212) 818 0770

White Rully is one of the unsung values of Burgundy. This soft, attractive ripe wine is a pleasure to drink. It has a buttery, toast character along with crisp acidity, delicious apricot fruit and a mouthwatering aftertaste.——R.V.(5/1/2011)—— 88