Given the richness of so much of his raw material and the presence of botrytis, Kerpen said he “got stomach cramps” in anticipation of problematic fermentations. But in the event, all of his nobly sweet wines fermented entirely on their ambient yeasts and without any encouragement. The personality of Kerpen’s “un-starred” 2004 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese represents something of a crossing of the two Sonnenuhr Spatlesen. Vanilla, spiced pear, juicy pineapple, and a honeyed hint of botrytis in the nose and mouth are met by fresh, invigorating citrus and raw apple, leading to a finish reminiscent of fresh pineapple and apple-studded vanilla pudding. No doubt this excellent value (for an Auslese) will require six or eight years to really hit its stride and reward the premium one will pay beyond the price of the Spatlesen, but both its richness and its dynamic freshness of fruit should survive that transition. Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300