This is a best-barrels blend whose proceeds go charity. The ’05 is a blend of Silver Pines, Van der Kamp, Chris Lee and others, and it’s gorgeous. Rewards for its high acid, silky feel, so light and airy, and for the intensity of cola, cherry, pomegranate, smoky vanilla cream and Asian spice flavors that last on the finish. Should pick up additional nuance for the next four years.——S.H.(8/1/2007)—— 95