The 2005 Cotes du Rhone is an elegant, richly fruity wine with a dark ruby/purple-tinged color and hints of garrigue, ground pepper, and sweet black currants and cherries. It is soft, round, and ideal for drinking over the next 2-3 years. This estate has come on impressively over the last five to six years. Although they have always made terrific Tavel roses and good Cotes du Rhones and Liracs, their small production of Chateauneuf du Pape has been raised to a new, exciting level of quality. The wines here are very Provencal, but lush in fruit and accessible, clearly meant to be drunk in their exuberant youthfulness. Importer: Alain Junguenet, Wines of France, Mountainside, NJ; tel. (908) 654-6173

Slightly more tannic and structured than the lusher 2004 version, but still a good wine. Bold cherry fruit picks up a touch of mocha on the firm finish. Drink the 2004 now; hold this wine 1–2 years. ——J.C.(11/15/2006)—— 86