The Arlaud 2008 Morey-St.-Denis Les Ruchots displays the bittersweet dark berry richness and pungent intensity of herbal extracts that one has come to expect from this outstanding premier cru just below Clos de Tart. Horehound, licorice, cherry, black raspberry, and cedar inform a dense, subtly satiny, finely-tannic palate. This hasn’t quite the seductive allure of the corresponding Les Millandes but ought to justify repeated visits over at least the next 10-12 years. Like many other 2008s – and 2005s – it combines brightness of fruit acidity with a metaphorically dark cast of flavors and brooding underling tannic concentration. (Cyprien Arlaud, for his part, points out the resemblance of this 2008 to the corresponding 2002, which I subsequently was able to verify from my own rather small collection of red Burgundies.) Cyprien Arlaud’s 2008s built on the success of his 2005s and 2006s, leading me to regret that I could not find time to taste his 2007s. (For more about recent changes at this estate, consult my report in issue 186.) Between measures taken to avoid and eliminate botrytis and the dehydrating effect of the north wine, explained Arlaud, he sacrificed one-third the volume of what he considers a normal crop. Arlaud showed me the chart on which he had recorded the picking dates for his parcels, and it represented, he assured me, a crazy-quilt unprecedented in his estate’s history. More than a week, for example, separated the harvest dates of his Morey premier crus Les Chezeaux and Les Ruchots; and some appellations were picked in as many as three tranches. But by careful strategizing and relatively late commencement of his entire harvest, Arlaud was able to remain true to his intention not to chaptalize by much more than half a degree. In the event, he ended up with 2008s in the upper 12s and low 13s in percent alcohol. Cuvaisons lasted up to thirty days, in part thanks to a slow, cold pre-fermentative start, but Arlaud limited pigeage to 3-5 total performances. Malos – with the exception of a Sentiers that charged ahead – were finished by high summer of 2009. (Arlaud is among those who ascribe 2008s problematic malos at least in part to growers having taken the advice of their oenologist and been liberal with sulfuring their grapes and musts.) Arlaud utilized a small proportion of whole clusters and stems on this year’s grand crus, but noted “this was not an ideal vintage for commencing to utilize a significant proportion of stems.” A Peter Vezan Selection (various importers), Paris; fax 011 33 1 42 55 42 93