From under the Clos de Tart and the tiny Morey sliver of Bonnes Mares, a 2005 Morey-St.-Denis Les Ruchots (aged in 40% new wood and recently assembled) had already been racked twice when I tasted, due to previous reduction. A good shaking was once again in order, at which point candied maraschino cherry and cinnamon candy aromas and flavors emerge. Intensely sweet red and black cherry accompanied by brown spices and hints of wood on a finely-tannic palate would not seem at all out of place in the New World. The finish is certainly flamboyantly fruity, penetrating, and pure, with the tannins quite well covered-over. A Peter Vezan Selection (various importers), Paris; fax 011 33 1 42 55 42 93.