Barossa’s answer to a stainless steel-fermented and aged French Maconnais or Chablis is the 2004 Unwooded Chardonnay. Notes of white peaches, pears, and sweet white corn are present in this medium-bodied, elegant, crisp, fruit-driven Chardonnay. Drink it over the next year. Imported by USA Wine West, San Rafael, CA; tel. (800) 485-5753 for John Larchet, The Australian Premium Wine Collection.

A decent Chardonnay, but one that just isn't all that harmonious. There's burnt-matchstick on the nose, and twangy yellow flavors (mustard seed, citrus) lending tart flavors to the palate. 140 cases produced.——D.T.(10/1/2005)—— 83