While dry botrytis was at a premium in his sites this year, says Vollenweider, he managed to harvest a 2008 Krover Steffensberg Riesling Auslese that - beneath a faint vale of yeastiness - smells delectably of ripe nectarine, grapefruit, and lemon; comes to the palate with juicy acidity perfectly pitted against residual sweetness and fruit pit bitterness adeptly integrated into alluring, saline savor; and finishes with a remarkably animated and buoyant fugue of botrytis honey and spice; minerality, citricity, and succulent pit fruit flavors. How often can you describe a botrytis Auslese as -invigorating-? I would expect this to be worth watching for 20-25 years and to gain in complexity, but that said, it is irresistibly delicious already now. Given the premium Daniel Vollenweider puts on delicacy and vivacity as hallmarks of Middle Mosel Riesling, it is easy to see why he is pleased with the character of his 2008s, although in the dry echelons these wines are apt to strike many tasters as too marked by their acidity.Importers include Vineyard Research, Inc., Lunenburg, MA; tel. 617 686 8052; Ewald Moseler Selections, Portland OR; tel. 888 274 4312; A Bill Mayer Age of Riesling Selection Imported by Valley View Wine Sales, Glen Ellen, CA; tel. (510) 549 2444