The 2012 El Fanio is a pure Xarello, aged for six months in egg-shaped cement vats (40% of the wine) and in 300-liter acacia barrels, which displays a bright pale color, with notes of ripe fruit, spices, beeswax, eucalyptus and chalk and aromas of exotic woods in the background, with depth, good concentration, intensity and length. It has only started developing some complexity. Fine and elegant, it should develop well in bottle. Drink now-2017. Albet i Noya is one of the pioneers in organic farming in Spain: the winery started producing organic wines in 1978. They produce a grand total of 1.2 million bottles, both still and sparkling. The latest news is that the sparkling wines will be sold under the Penedes appellation, leaving Cava as many others have already done. Importer: Opici Wines, Glenn Rock, NJ; tel. (201) 689-1200, www.opici.com