The 2000 Brut Blanc de Noirs Vieilles Vignes Francaises emerges from the glass with an elegant, refined mousse that is captivating. Sweet, perfumed and layered, the 2000 VVF shows off superb grace and a long, vibrant finish. This is an especially elegant and understated version of this Champagne. My preference is to drink VVF before age 20. Bollinger’s VVF is one of Champagne’s rarest and most iconic wines. Just a few thousand bottles are made each year from Pinot Noir grafted onto pre-phylloxera rootstocks in Ay and Bouzy. This bottle was disgorged in July, 2009. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2020. This is a beautiful set of new releases from Bollinger, one of Champagne’s reference-point houses. The wines are aged in neutral oak barrels, while all of the reserve wines are aged in magnums, a painstaking procedure that must be seen to be truly appreciated. This year I didn’t taste the entry-level NV Special Cuvee or Brut Rose, but the Special Cuvee in particular is typically one of my favorite Champagnes in the $75 price range.

An open-knit style, with spice, toast and nut aromas and flavors, accented by peach. This is firm, with a long aftertaste of candied berry, citrus and roasted nut. Drink now through 2020. 5 cases imported. -BS