The outstanding 2006 Dancing Bear Ranch Proprietary Red (79% Cabernet Sauvignon, 17% Merlot, and 4% Cabernet Franc) is a medium-bodied, elegant Cabernet-based wine with a dense purple color as well as a sweet bouquet of loamy soil, crushed rock, black currant, plum, licorice, and a hint of subtle, well-integrated new oak. Approachable now, this 2006 promises to evolve for 12-15+ years. Tel. (800) 588-0298; Fax (707) 967-4012

This is a very rich wine. Complex, too. With every sip, it seems to offer a little more of itself. On the surface, it’s dry, tannic and fruity, with blackberry, black currant, dark chocolate and cedar flavors. But it has mineral and herb nuances that seem to spring from the soil, and the depth and finish are impressive. Drinkable now for sheer luxury, and should continue to develop over the next decade.——S.H.(12/1/2010)—— 94