The last time I had this wine, it seemed much more developed, youthful and approachable. This particular bottle, which was pulled from my cellar, was super-powerful, dense and concentrated, as well as structured and backward. Aeration helped somewhat, but this looks like a very long-lived wine, and my initial suggestion of an anticipated maturity date (2010-2025) should be changed to 2015-2035. Only 450 cases were made of this blend of 88% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Merlot and 2% Cabernet Franc from former proprietor Jean Phillips’ vineyards just south of the Oakville crossroads. The spectacular dense blue/purple color remains opaque. The wine displays the hallmark creme de cassis, floral and licorice notes that are so pure, vivid and intense, and which have always been part of this vineyard’s classic trademark. With great purity, a full-bodied mouthfeel and even more thickness, power and density than I remember, this wine has put on weight, developed more structure, and looks like a candidate for 30 more years of aging potential. This is a brilliant wine, much in keeping with the legendary status of this producer.Tel. (707) 944-0749; Fax (707) 944-9271

The oak certainly screams out, and it’s good oak, freshly hewn and smokily charred. Underneath is superripe fruit, plummy to the point of milk chocolate pudding. This big, heavily extracted Cab is classic Eagle in style.——S.H.(10/1/2004)—— 91