The 2010 Lapola is a blend of all the estate’s white parcels consisting of Godello, interpolated with pockets of Torrontes, Treixadura and so forth, raised in foudres and concrete for up to 10 months. It has a fresh, lifted bouquet of freshly sliced mango and peach that is very well-defined. The palate is nicely balanced with touches of pear, mango and papaya, cut through with crisp acidity and a very refined finish that does not short change on length. The additional varieties seem to lend more complexity to the Godello. Very fine. Drink now-2016. Occasionally you have to journey to remote areas in order to reach some of Spain’s finest producers, but the long drive to Dominio do Bibei to meet winemaker Javier Dominguez and his team was certainly worth it. Though winemaking in this part of Ribeira Sacra dates back centuries, the winery is unapologetically modern in design, as each disconnected building dedicated to one part of the vinification process cascades down the gorge. The vines occupy steep loam and clay terraces over granite and slate bedrock that are low in organic material, located between 300 and 670 meters in altitude. Javier came across as a deeply philosophical person with strong tenets about his wines, which exuded great purity and varietal expression, almost Burgundy-like in their tannin profile, but with a little more fruit intensity. What I enjoyed was their precision and symmetry – wines that demand concentration before sitting back and simply enjoying them. Importer: De Maison Selections (USA); www.demaisonselections.com; and Carte Blanche (UK)