Von Kunow’s 2005 Oberemmeler Hutte Riesling Auslese offers complex scents of flowers, mint, quinine, and poached pear with white raisins. Soft and rich yet delicate and refined, this Riesling disburses pure pear and floral essences all across the palate, finishing with subtle complexity and satisfying sweetness. Also recommended: 2005 Scharzhofberger Riesling Auslese ($36.00; 86), 2005 Oberemmeler Hutte Riesling Kabinett ($20.00; 85).Importer: Rudi Wiest, Cellars International, Carlsbad, CA; tel. 800-596-9463

The 2005 Oberemmeler Hutte Riesling Auslese* (“one star”) offers apple, white raisin, and spicy botrytis in the nose. Creamy in texture and exhibiting a pleasant juxtaposition of white raisin-studded caramel apple, spiced applesauce, and tart crabapple notes on the palate, this finishes with honeyed richness and attractive spiciness, while sacrificing a bit of sap and juiciness on the altar of noble rot. There are 2,000 liters, but the price will be determined by the VDP Trier auction (over which von Kunow, incidentally, has presided for more than a generation). Also recommended: 2005 Scharzhofberger Riesling Auslese ($36.00; 86), 2005 Oberemmeler Hutte Riesling Kabinett ($20.00; 85).Importer: Rudi Wiest, Cellars International, Carlsbad, CA; tel. 800-596-9463