In what was a terrific vintage for ripeness and richness, Les Gouberts offerings range from a straightforward, soft, pleasant but compact, monolithic 1990 Cotes du Rhone, to medium-bodied, slightly richer and riper selections from the Cotes du Rhone villages of Sablet and Beaumes de Venise. The 1990 Gigondas-Cuvee Florence was terrific from cask, but now that it has been bottled, the wine tastes austere and a trifle eviscerated. It reveals toasty new oak aromas combined with an attractive fragrance of black-cherry and cassis fruit. In the mouth, there was less of the super-ripe character of the 1989, more structure, and a surprisingly quick finish. After a serious discussion with Cartier about excessive fining and filtration, I sensed he regretted the degree to which he filtered his 1990s. Anticipated maturity: Now-1999 . Various importers.