The 2007 Gruner Veltliner Smaragd Hochrain displays almost Riesling-like transparency and refinement, with a shimmering sense of mineral notes (white pepper, chalk dust, salt) playing against sweet pea, lime, and green tomato. A sense of compactness and palpable extract underlies this wine’s sheer concentration, and yet it generates energy and lift in its finish, belying its well over 14% alcohol. This should be a ten year wine. Pichler’s 2007s differ very little in gross chemistry from his 2006s – including the high alcohol of several Gruner Veltliner – yet they have dramatically different personalities. Pichler compares them with his 1997s, and perhaps time in bottle will more clearly bear out that high praise. Rudi Pichler is a great believer in watchfully letting nature take its course and although some of his 2007s came in with pH levels many growers would consider alarmingly high he gave no thought to adjusting them, and the finished wines bear him out, displaying the vivacity and freshness typical of 2007.Importer: Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700

A textbook Grüner, with firm, focused grapefruit flavors and hints of mineral and white pepper. The zesty finish is racy and features apple and piecrust notes. Drink now through 2015. 750 cases made.??–KM??Region: Austria / Nieder?sterreich / Wachau Select to Add