The black cherry, rose, and blackberry-scented 1999 Pinot Noir Rion Reserve is produced from a barrel selection of the Ridgecrest Vineyard. Medium to full-bodied and layered, with candied berries, compotes of cherries, and jammy strawberries, it is a broad, big, muscular wine with an elegant character and an impressively long, supple, fruit-filled finish. Anticipated maturity: 2005-2012. Tel. (503) 539-4700

Some earthy, dense, terroir-driven aromas start this one off, followed by a mouthful of plum, cola and smoked meat. The color is dark as is the overall profile of the wine; it’s powerful and richly fruited. Very modern and offering more bulk, intensity and hedonism than elegance. ——W.E.(10/1/2002)—— 89