An outstanding, sexy effort is the 2004 Zinfandel Napa Ranches (15.8% alcohol), which offers up gorgeous scents of black cherries, licorice, smoke, and blackberries. Ripe, pure, and voluptuously textured with well-integrated acidity and wood, it will drink beautifully over the next 5-7 years. Tel. (707) 257-7555