Here’s one for the cellar. Still youthful, the wine brims with fresh acids and dry tannins that leave behind an astringent finish. Clos du Val Cabernets age well over decades, and this one stays true to the winery’s Medoc-oriented vision, marching to its own beat in an age of drink-me-now wines. Stash until 2009, at least.——S.H.(12/1/2007)—— 90