The white wine progression begins with a wine labeled 2004 Riesling “R”, composed of contract fruit from Lorch, Lorchhausen, and Rudesheim. The practical intent of this wine is not just to have a suitable visitors’ card for the estate but, frankly, to keep alive the hopes and fortunes of growers in Lorch and Lorchhausen who are chronically in danger of having to give up the unrewarding practice of steep slope viticulture. Given the astonishing value that this wine represents, Kesseler and his partners might just end up having a genuine economic impact if they attempt to meet consumer demand! It has been some time since I tasted a German Riesling this good for the price. Apple blossom, lime and sweet clover rise from the glass, bringing to mind the Mosel. In the mouth, the exchange of slate and fruit acidity is positively shimmering. This sits delicately on the palate, yet saturates it with fruit, flowers, minerals in wet stone, and salt and quarry dust variations. Twenty-six grams of sugar are perfectly integrated, so that the wine displays only a hint of sweetness. The finish is so ingratiatingly fruity and invigoratingly mineral it spreads from ear to ear and simply compels the next sip -- make that “gulp”! (It should be noted that due to the volume being produced, there will be more than one lot – I tasted A.P. #6. Kesseler will endeavor to blend them to be all but indistinguishable.) Not many years ago, August Kesseler was vinifying – in addition to the Pinot Noirs for which he has long been known – almost entirely dry Rieslings that were seldom seen outside Germany. Nowadays, he is reveling in residually sweet Rieslings and has launched an aggressive export program with the intention of becoming a major force in the U.S. market. Given the amazing price/quality rapport of some of the wines I tasted, he should succeed brilliantly in that endeavor.Various importers including: Classic Wine Imports, Boston, MA; tel. (800) 362-4420; Dee Vine Wines, San Francisco, CA; tel. (877) 389-9463; Ewald Moseler Selections, Portland, OR; tel. (50) 236-9370

A plump white, showing nectarine and apricot flavors, followed by a modest finish. Drink now.??–BS??Region: Germany / Rheingau Select to Add