The 2005 Morellino di Scansano Heba, a medium lively ruby, is fresh and vinous, with attractive sweet fruit and a pleasing, up-front personality. It is best enjoyed over the next few years. Anticipated maturity: 2007-2010. Fattoria di Magliano cultivates 45 hectares of vineyards located in the province of Grosseto. The vineyards are planted at a fairly high density of 6,400 vines per hectare and yields per plant are kept very low. Importer: A Marc de Grazia Selection, various American importers, including Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300, Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700, and Estate Wines, Ltd., San Rafael, CA; tel. (415) 492-9411

The nose here is layered and complex but also slightly unruly with red fruit, bacon fat, campfire, graphite and herbs all vying for your attention. Pretty spice and clove notes liven up the mouthfeel (it ages eight months in oak), as does the natural acidity.——M.L.(3/1/2008)—— 86