Still in cask (when I tasted in August), a 2004 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Kabinett smells of fresh apple, lime, and vanilla. The palate is delicate and refined, with an interplay of tart, fresh citrus, apple, and salty, stony minerality. The finishing flavors are a touch austere, yet the impression is generous in its lip-smacking juiciness. Despite 30 grams of residual sugar, this wine tastes halbtrocken. Incidentally, between sales to the States and a reservation by a major airline, there was not a single bottle to be had for me to taste of this year’s Bernkasteler Badstube Kabinett. Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300