Grassy and green-smelling, with hints of asparagus, green tobacco and sea air. This is true cool-climate white wine, and it shows its proximity to the ocean via aromas of green bean, asparagus and citrus. It’s lean as can be, and tight as a drum. It’s a terroir wine that has good freshness but could benefit from slightly more amplified fruit.——M.S.(5/1/2008)—— 86