The dark ruby/purple-colored 1998 Gigondas is a very good, spicy, elegant, restrained offering with abundant berry fruit intermixed with soil and spicy wood scents. Medium-bodied, beautifully concentrated, ripe, and well-balanced, it should drink well for a decade. A Patrick Lesec Selection (Paris fax # 011 33 1 42 84 38 22), various American importers, including Adventures in Wine, Daly City, CA; tel. (415) 467-0130, Atlantic Importing Co., Newton, MA; tel. (617) 965-2933, Fine Vines LLC, Maywood, IL; tel. (708) 343-5901, and New Castle Imports, Myrtle Beach, SC; tel. (843) 497-8625