Argiolas accomplishes fabulous things with Vermentino (known as Rolle in France) from their high altitude vineyards. The delicate straw color of the 2005 Costamolino Vermentino di Sardegna is followed by beautiful aromas of almonds, oranges, lemon, honey, apple skins, and a hint of tropical fruits. This crisp, elegant, medium-bodied, intense white should be enjoyed over the next year. One of my favorite estates from Sardinia, Argiolas, located just north of Cagliari, has long promoted the island’s indigenous varietals, including Nuragus and Vermentino for their whites, and such red grapes as Cannonau, Monica, Carignano, and Bovale Sardo. I strongly urge readers to check out these fabulous wine values as they are every bit as good as these enthusiastic notes suggest. Just one caveat: Drink the whites within a year of release, and the reds within several. A Leonardo LoCascio Selection, Winebow, Montvale, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620; fax (201) 445-9868.