Fashioned from 100% Vermentino (called Rolle in southern France), the light straw-colored 2003 Costamolino reveals an enticing perfume of honeyed grapefruit, licorice, earth, and minerals. Reminiscent of a lightweight white Hermitage from France’s Rhone Valley, it is richly fruity, medium-bodied, and long in the mouth. Enjoy it over the next 1-2 years. A Leonardo Locascio Selection, Winebow, Hohokus, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620

Round, fruity and fleshy, like Vermentino from Sardinia should be. It also has that telltale spiced-meat aroma. As a whole this is totally pleasant, a touch hefty but with proper acids and balance. Flavorwise, the mix offers apple, pear and herbs. Easy to drink and versatile.——M.S.(8/1/2004)—— 87