Von Kunow’s 2006 Scharzhofbeger Riesling Kabinett smells of poached peaches laced with almond extract, brown spices, vanilla, and a certain hard-to-pin-down, intriguing, high-toned note from botrytis. Soft and creamy in texture (belying its 9 grams acidity) but with a delicacy that bespeaks “true Kabinett,” this finishes with ravishing richness and soothing yet refreshing and delicate length, its youthful sweetness complementing its ripe fruit and exotic, spicy notes. I wouldn’t be surprised to see this keep well for 8-10 years, although my guess is that most of these von Hovel 2006s have a certain fragility vis a vis the long-lasting Saar Riesling we associate with classic years. Ebernard von Kunow’s outstanding 2005 collection gave promise of a return to the quality that made this estate a leader for most of the last quarter century, and – in the context of a challenging vintage – his 2006s were reassuring on that score. Patient settling of the musts and selective bentonite fining were von Kunow’s non-aggressive tools for dealing with the negative side of botrytis one of the most rigorous triages that time permitted had taken place in the vineyards. Rapid harvest, low yields and a frank desire to simplify things a bit, have resulted in fewer individual bottlings than one generally associates with this address.Importer: Rudi Wiest, Cellars International, Carlsbad, CA; tel. (800) 596-9463
粵公網(wǎng)安備 44030502006249號