The 2004 Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Riesling Beerenauslese was picked out across all of the Selbach’s parcels, and came close to making their cut for T.B.A. Honey, malt, clove oil, peach jam, and mysteriously smoky, animal scents rise from the deep gold glass. In the mouth, this wine is deeply concentrated with low toned caramelized pit fruits, malt, praline, and brown spices, enlivened and further complexified by notes of lime peel and salt. The book-length finish still won’t tell you all you want to know about this wine. You’ll need to follow it over the next 30 and more years, during which time who knows how many more points it might elicit from the pen of someone who continues my work. Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300