The 2010 Goliardo Loureiro comes from vines planted in 1972 and sees 12 months in French oak. It has a fresh nose of brambly dark fruit, hints of black tea and undergrowth that are very well-defined. The palate is medium-bodied with bell pepper infusing the red fruit profile on the entry. There is a crisp seam of acidity that leads it to a harmonious, almost Chinon-like finish that could do with just a little more persistency. But that is a minor quibble for what is a very fine, pure Loureiro. Drink now-2018.
Bodegas Forjas del Salnes is one of the most revered producers in Rias Baixas. Located close to the Atlantic, Rodrigo Mendez tends vines located on granitic sand with some phylloxera- resistant vines well over one century old. He is renowned for his red wines, although to be truthful only the Goliardo Loureiro fulfilled my expectations. But Rodrigo’s two whites were terrific and this is where I will commence.
Importer: Peninsula Wines (Patrick Mata and Alberto Orte) New Rochelle, NY; tel. (914) 740-4724 and Carte Blanche Wines (UK).
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