The 2003 Altano Reserva takes on an extra dimension, and the price is still reasonable. It is a clear step up. On tasting this, the thought “modern, young cru bourgeois Bordeaux” very much came to mind. This is velvety in texture, with little bursts of acidity that enliven the wine. The flavors are pure and the young, sappy, primary fruit, a blend of Touriga Franca and Touriga Nacional, is sweet. It is a pleasure to drink, suave, relatively gentle, with a mid-weight mid-palate and relatively refined tannins. There is enough acidity to make it lively, not stolid. This is not exactly the most distinguished or complex wine you will find, but it is fun to drink from first glass to last, as it has few rough edges and tastes great, thanks to its sweet mid-palate. It would be nice if the fruit calmed down just a bit, and the grapy, young primary notes were replaced by something a little more distinguished as it matures in the cellar. Although it is quite drinkable now, I would recommend, to accomplish that result, that this be held until 2008. This is a very fine value for the price. If it is not distinguished, it is loads of fun. Drink now-2013. Symington is, of course, one of the fabled names in the Douro, owning Warres, Dow’s, Graham’s and other famous Port houses. Their dry wines seem to be coming along fine, too, particularly their partnership with Bruno Prats of Cos d’Estournel fame (separately listed under Prats & Symington). The basic Altano wines are a super deal, and the Vale do Bomfim is one of the best buys in this report. The Symington partnership with Joao van Zeller at Quinta de Roriz (also listed separately) is very successful as well. As I look over my notes, few, if any, wineries were providing more value for the money than the Symingtons, from their own estates and their various partnerships, although they certainly have some pricey upper level bottlings as well. Importer for the Altano wines: Vineyard Brands, 2000 Resource Drive, Birmingham, AL 35242, 205-980-8802. Importer for Vale do Bomfim: Premium Port Wines, San Francisco, CA; tel. (415) 554-9920