Named for the founder of this winemaking dynasty (584 years ago), Albrecht's 2008 Pinot Gris Romanus both smells and tastes delightfully of lightly-salted peaches and vanilla cream. While the palate impression is rather loose, it retains attractive juiciness to complement its suggestions of creaminess and its ripeness of fruit. Hints of musk, moss, and lightly-toasted cashew characterize a refreshing, clear, and virtually-dry finish. I would recommend enjoying this in its youth, although I am sure it will keep well enough for at least 3-4 years. As a group, Albrecht's wines were delightfully user-friendly, although some of them - like so many wines of Alsace nowadays -lacked the concentration or distinctiveness to render them excellent values, given starting prices of close to $20.Importer: Pasternak Wine Imports, Harrison, NY; tel. (914) 630-8214

Ripe and opulent, offering up a lovely cornucopia of rose, cardamon, nutmeg and faded flower tones that slide into a luxuriously textured palate with spice and quince accents. Try with an onion tart. Best now to 2011. ——W.E.(6/1/2010)—— 88