There are 7,000 bottles of the Crozes-Hermitage Clos St.-Georges, an 11.5-acre vineyard located near the Rhone River in the area known as Les Chassis. Only the finest grapes from Clos St.-Georges are included in this cuvee, an extraordinary Crozes-Hermitage. The wine is 100% barrel-aged. The outstanding, deep ruby/purple-colored 1998 Crozes-Hermitage Clos St.-Georges possesses power allied to elegance. An intense bouquet of cassis, minerals, licorice, and smoke is followed by a wine with superb concentration, a layered mid-palate, medium to full body, and exquisite purity. Not a blockbuster, it is a beautifully-etched 1998 that should be at its best between 2002-2015.Importer: Maison Marques et Domaines, Oakland, CA; tel. (510) 286-2000.

Lovely, supple Syrah with distinctive aromas of Provencal herbs, fresh basil and black and red berries. Medium-bodied, it offers intensity on the lingering finish. Drink now through 2005. 550 cases made. -PM