The 2018 Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru has turned out superbly, unwinding with scents of lemon oil, mandarin, fresh pear, buttery pastry and green apple. Full-bodied, layered and muscular, it's saline and enveloping, with a concentrated core of fruit, lively acids and a long, mineral finish. This is a dramatic, expressive rendition of a cuvée that still flies somewhat under the radar.