Mme. de Nicolay was kind enough to open a bottle of the 1996 Corton-Charlemagne, a wine I had only tasted from barrel. Spiced pears, minerals, and toasted oak were evident in its aromatics. On the palate it offered a dense core of mouth-coating minerals and gravel. This rich yet highly structured wine is extremely tight at present (as are most 1996s) and will require considerable cellaring patience. Anticipated maturity: 2003-2010. A Daniel Johnnes Selection, New York, NY; tel (212) 374-9415, also imported by De Gustibus Imports in Washington State, and Beaune Imports in California.