Guilhem & Jean-Hugues Goisot Saint-Bris Moury, Burgundy, France

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Goisots’ 2007 Saint-Bris Moury (named for a Portlandian limestone sector of the town) is more pungently herbal and texturally spare than the Exogyra Virgula, with suggestions of fennel and parsley allied to lemon, kumquat, and yellow plum. Subtly bitter citrus oils and cyanic notes of fruit pit lend a piquant note that enhances the sense of austerity, as do strikingly overt chalky, wet stone elements in the tenacious finish. This should be worth following for at least three more years. Guilhem Goisot (whose name has now replaced that of his mother in this estate’s official title) echoed the sentiments of many regional growers that the grapes – while already adequately high in sugar at the end of August – were simply not ripe. But time was on an Auxerrre vintner’s side in 2007, and the Goisots were able to pick selectively, parcel by parcel, for three weeks, as compared with nine days in 2006. Their single-vineyard bottlings came close to 13.5% in natural alcohol, those few lots that approached 14% having been consigned to blends. Sauvignon, with its characteristically southwestern exposures (hail-free this year), was picked last – albeit already mid-September – and adequately ripe.Thomas Calder Selections (various importers), Paris; fax 011-33-1-46-45-15-29