Sauvignon is characteristically planted on north-east facing slopes here, but you would never guess this from the level of ripeness achieved in the Goisots’ 2006 Saint-Bris Moury (named for one of two locations where their Sauvignon is planted) and in fact routinely at this address in recent vintages. Heat put particularly precocious pressure on Sauvignon this year, and the Goisots – who are fast coming to the conclusion that climate change is rendering differences in exposure insignificant – harvested it already at the beginning of the second week in September. Dill, fresh lemon, and shrimp shell and anchovy-like briny notes inform the nose as well as a clear, pure, juicy, and (considering the vintage) surprisingly light-weight palate. Citrus zest piquancy and an almost dusty impression of crushed stone ally themselves to the maritime sense of minerality in the finish. Goisot Sauvignon can often age quite impressively, but I would anticipate drinking all three 2006 Goisot Saint-Bris bottlings within the next three years. The Goisots farmed organically before that implied any fashion statement, and have long been the foremost vintners of appellation Saint-Bris (Sauvignon Blanc). Their Chardonnays of Cotes d’Auxerre appellation have been enhanced in recent vintages by the addition of barrel-fermented bottlings from individual sites that offer a level of complexity comparable to top-notch premier cru Chablis.Importer:Thomas Calder Selections (various importers), Paris; fax 011-33-1-46-45-15-29