It is hard to choose between the magical Macon-Pierreclos Juliette et les Vieilles de Chavigne and the superb 2018 Pouilly-Fuissé 1er Jus des Hautes des Vignes—a cuvée produced from the first free juice deriving from Guffens's holdings in La Roche (which accounts for some 60% of the blend) and Les Croux—and it would be easy to anoint either as the wine of the vintage in the Maconnais. Opening in the glass with aromas of pear, citrus oil, confit lemon, wheat toast, beeswax and petrol, it's full-bodied, textural and incisive, with a deep and concentrated core, striking levels of chalky dry extract and a long, penetrating finish. Still an infant, it will only begin to show all its cards after a decade in the cellar.
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