"We made better wines in the Maconnais than the vignerons in the C?te d'Or, because we're too poor to go on vacation," jokes Jean-Marie Guffens, as he recalls that the grapes that produced the 2003 Pouilly-Fuissé Premier Jus des Hautes Vignes were picked on August 18 with more than 14% potential alcohol. The resulting wine is a monument in the making, unfurling in the glass with youthful aromas of wheat toast, smoke, crisp orchard fruit and citrus oil. Full-bodied, deep and immensely concentrated, it married huge levels of dry extract with remarkably racy, incisive acids. Structured and muscular, this will prove extraordinarily long-lived.