Tasted from barrel in an approximation to the envisioned assemblage, Merlin’s 2009 Moulin-a-Vent La Rochelle – from vines planted in 1937 – displays complex aromas and flavors of cassis, blackberry, smoky-sweet machine oil, toasted nuts, peat, and graphite. Firm and substantial on the palate, it finishes with a fascinating interaction of fruit, mineral, and gamey carnal notes. Subsequent sulfuring and bottling may render this brighter and less low-toned. It displays a formidable streak of tannin, but I would be inclined to bet on its being worth following for a few years and perhaps even standing the test of a half dozen or more in bottle. A Becky Wasserman Selection, Le Serbet (various importers); fax 011-333-80-24-29-70