The 2004 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva is a big, rich wine. Dark wild cherries, tobacco, new leather, French oak, soy and menthol are some of the nuances that emerge from this large-scaled, imposing Brunello. The density and concentration are striking, and the wine appears to have more than enough stuffing to stand up to its tannic clout. The Riserva is not particularly forthcoming at this stage, so readers will have to exercise a measure of patience. La Fortuna’s Riserva is made from vines in Montalcino and Castelnuovo dell’Abate. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2024.
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