Weingut Clemens-Busch Marienburg Rothenpfad Marienburg Rothenpfad Riesling Grosses Gewachs, Mosel, Germany

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The first of an as usual lengthy series of virtually-dry bottlings from individual sites, Busch’s 2007 Pundericher Marienburg Rothenpfad Riesling from 60-70 year old vines – smells of banana, mango, maraschino, orange zest, and brown spices. For all of its exotic ripeness, and a rich, creamy texture, this preserves juicy refreshment. There is a deep pistachio-like nuttiness as in several of the best Busch wines of the vintage, and a sensationally satisfying, long finish. I realize after having developed strong opinions I might have to struggle to evaluate a situation like this fairly, but I simply cannot see why for the sake a few grams of residual sugar (this has 13) one would want to generate a wine like the corresponding Rothenpfad Grosses Gewachs – good though it is – when one could attain the expressive richness, impeccable balance, and for all practical purposes dry character of this superb Riesling. Furthermore, the majority of even those growers who insist on bottling legally trocken wine will admit (granted, they might be wrong, but profess to believe this) that a wine with these few grams extra residual sugar will for that reason age better. I’ll side with the majority opinion on the issue and tell you to follow this for at least 7-9 years without compunction. “I might have been able to get the whole thing down to 9 grams even blending this lot with the other,” says Busch, “but the two simply didn’t marry harmoniously.” Thank heaven for that! Clemens Busch – among the Mosel’s few organic vintners, and the undisputed champion of the Lower Mosel’s steep Pundericher Marienburg – is also rapidly demonstrating that he is simply one of the collective Mosel, Saar, and Ruwer’s exceptional talents, not to mention stylistically free spirits. Most of his top wines are labeled with their old pre-1971 site names. Nature thrust on him in 2006 an unprecedented 9 Auslesen (many distinguished only by number), 3 Beerenauslesen, and single T.B.A. (most of which were reviewed in issue 179). In 2007, an at least slightly more normal – not to mention more marketable – balance of dry-tasting (though not always legally trocken) wines was restored, but success, Busch insists, was possible only by dint of great patience and then, when the time was ripe for picking, in great haste. A considerable number of overtly nobly sweet wine was picked in the process, as there was no lack of botrytis in this fungicide-free zone.Mosel Wine Merchant selections (various importers), Trier, Gemany; fax 011 49 (0)651-14551 39; also imported by by Ewald Moseler Selections, Portland OR tel. 888 274 4312

Since Busch is now in the VDP, he has singled out certain wines as “Grosse Gewachse,” including a 2007 Pundericher Marienburg Rothenpfad Riesling Grosses Gewachs. The choice was to some extent in nature’s hands, as only wines that finish legally trocken are eligible. Here there is a rather aggressive, prickly phenolic intensity of citrus zest and a faint hint of heat from the wine’s 13.5% alcohol. Lavender, cyanic fruit pit bitterness, and crushed stone mingle with citrus oils in the high-toned nose. White Burgundy-like toasted hazelnut informs a relatively voluminous palate. Ultimately, this is imposingly rich, but much less interesting let alone fun to drink than the generic “two star” Spatlese trocken, and I am convinced less-successful than it might have been, on account of its relatively low sugar and high alcohol I don’t foresee a better balance with age and would be inclined to enjoy its admittedly considerable virtues over the next year or two. Clemens Busch – among the Mosel’s few organic vintners, and the undisputed champion of the Lower Mosel’s steep Pundericher Marienburg – is also rapidly demonstrating that he is simply one of the collective Mosel, Saar, and Ruwer’s exceptional talents, not to mention stylistically free spirits. Most of his top wines are labeled with their old pre-1971 site names. Nature thrust on him in 2006 an unprecedented 9 Auslesen (many distinguished only by number), 3 Beerenauslesen, and single T.B.A. (most of which were reviewed in issue 179). In 2007, an at least slightly more normal – not to mention more marketable – balance of dry-tasting (though not always legally trocken) wines was restored, but success, Busch insists, was possible only by dint of great patience and then, when the time was ripe for picking, in great haste. A considerable number of overtly nobly sweet wine was picked in the process, as there was no lack of botrytis in this fungicide-free zone.Mosel Wine Merchant selections (various importers), Trier, Gemany; fax 011 49 (0)651-14551 39; also imported by by Ewald Moseler Selections, Portland OR tel. 888 274 4312