The 2008 Oui Deux Syrah was co-fermented with 5% Viognier and aged for 20 months in 50% new oak. Earthy minerals, brier, wild blueberries, and pepper inform the nose of a savory, sweetly-fruited, layered, incipiently complex wine with enough structure to blossom for 2-3 years. It will be at its best from 2012 to 2020. Annette Bergevin and Amber Lane continue to turn out excellent wines at very fair prices from their Walla Walla-based winery. The current releases, particularly the Syrah cuvees, appear to be their best wines to date. The Calico wines are always terrific values and the new releases are no exception.Tel. (509) 526-4300; www.bergevinlane.com

In sharp contrast to the heavily oaked companion Syrahs from Bergevin Lane, the Oui Deux puts the fruit up front. Spicy and sharp-toned, it was co-fermented with 5% Viognier, and for all practical terms is a Stonetree Vineyard bottling. It should continue to improve nicely with a couple more years of bottle age. ——P.G.(2/1/2012)—— 88