From riper material than its Welschriesling counterpart and utilizing a significant portion of new wood, the Kollwentz 2007 Sauvignon Blanc Beerenauslese smells strikingly of lime, peppermint, and honey. Pure and polished on the palate, with an impression of honeydew melon liqueur mingled with lime sorbet, its high residual sugar is checked – or at least complimented – by citric brightness and zesty, herbal pungency. This should merit following for a decade. The Kollwentzes – Andi and father Anton Kollwenz – produce some of Austria’s most celebrated and expensive wines, and one would be hard-pressed to find two more conscientious or engaging vintners with whom to discuss their craft. I continue however to take highly variable satisfaction in the wines at this address, their reds and their single-vineyard Chardonnays often striking me as a bit stiff and overly-oaky, whereas the purity and longevity of their nobly sweet wines consistently impress, and I find their Sauvignon one of the world’s best (albeit little known outside Austria).Importer: Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700