This unusual blend of 60% Malbec and 40% Merlot comes across as the beneficiary of lots of sun. It’s big, chunky and sweet, with ample shadings of American oak. What it lacks in elegance is made up for in concentration and power. A little grapey, but spicy and leathery enough to qualify as a good quaffing wine rather than just ponderous grape juice.——M.S.(10/1/2000)—— 86