The 2004 Taurasi Radici is a rich, concentrated red loaded with tons of dark fruit, menthol, game and spices in a deceptively medium-bodied style. The dry extract numbers are literally off the charts at 39 grams/liter, yet this silky, sensual wine is drinking beautifully, even at this early stage. Pretty, sweet medicinal notes linger on the long finish. The Taurasi Radici is aged in a combination of small and large casks. This is one of the most elegant wines I can remember tasting from Mastroberardino in some time. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2019. This is an impressive range of wines from Mastroberardino, one of Campania's historic properties.Importer: A Leonardo Lo Cascio Selection, Winebow, Montvale, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620

This excellent vintage of the celebrated Taurasi Radici selection delivers an impeccable presentation of spice, black fruit and mineral that is incredibly smooth and well-integrated. There are no sharp points here and the wine offers sweet cherry flavors and great purity of fruit.——M.L.(10/1/2008)—— 92