The 2007 Oberhauser Leistenberg Riesling Kabinett features buddleia, honeysuckle, blueberry, white peach, and lime in aromatic profusion and on a luscious, refreshing palate where the sense of slate that reflects the geological nature of this site seems to act as a sounding board for bright, clarion fruit. Vineyards like this which once had to struggle to ripen Riesling are the big winners in global warming, remarks Donnhoff. Relish this subtly sweet beauty over the next 12-15 years. The excellent track record for this wine, it should be noted, was set in the era of struggle to which Donnhoff referred, one in which acids were less ripe and the wine was less generous. While Donnhoff returned to his usual humility in characterizing the latest vintage - following an atypically unabashed outbreak of enthusiasm in describing his indeed amazing collection of 2006s - it is clear that the 2007s delight him in a similar way, as outstanding representations of their respective sites at Spatlese ripeness. (Note, incidentally, that the Pradikat has been removed from any dry wines here, in keeping with a new convention of the Nahe branch of the VDP growers- association.) -Within that range of ripeness,- he submits, -one best-recognizes the site. Here you have nothing exaggerated, but instead a normal harvest, meaning a documentation of the vineyards, each a different face on the landscape. They all went to the same school and had the same opportunities- he adds, gesturing to the long row of Spatlesen on the tasting table, and alluding to his own role as well as the vintage-s. -It was a bit intimidating this year at harvest,- he added, -because when the grapes are perfect, you can only make mistakes.- I had the rare fortune to taste this collection twice, and like so many 2007s (a comment that even more growers made about their 2008s) the wines were much more impressive in September than in Spring. A 2007 Hermannshohle Trockenbeerenauslese, by the way, is still trying to become wine after two years.Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300
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