Syrah continues to go from strength to strength at Dehlinger. The 1995 Syrah Goldridge Vineyard (aged in 20% new oak) reveals an attractive peppery, bacony, sweet blackberry-scented nose, and ripe, rich, full-bodied flavors with plenty of sweet fruit. With an impressive chewy texture and excellent purity, it is a candidate for 10-18 years of cellaring, although it can be drunk now if matched with rich foods. Looking at the equation of points for value, Tom Dehlinger's wines still represent some of the best bargains in California. I can imagine there must be immense pressure on him to increase prices given both the quality of his wines, and the fact that he is dead center in the Russian River, a viticultural region that is as hot as a firecracker when it comes to popularity. His upcoming line-up includes many enticing entities. Tel. (707) 823-2378; Fax (707) 823-0918