The 1989 remains a young, tight, difficult to penetrate wine that is loaded with potential. Licorice, black fruits, Asian spices, and vanilla emerge from the dense, saturated purple color. Closed, firm, and powerful, with abundant tannin as well as extraction, it is a candidate for another two decades of cellaring. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2025.From this impeccably run estate, Andre Brunel produces 7,000 cases of a traditionally made regular Chateauneuf du Pape, and, when possible, about 500 cases of Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvee Centenaire. The Cuvee Centenaire emerges from 114-year old Grenache vines (about 80-85% of the blend), which is combined with younger-vine Syrah and Mourvedre. Approximately half of the blend spends time in new oak casks, and half in neutral foudres or vats. Brunel, who is one of the most articulate spokespersons of Chateauneuf du Pape, continues to fine tune his winemaking, always trying to enhance the fruit and texture. That has been apparent over recent vintages, although some of the old classics are not to be missed.Importer: Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 832-9083
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